Been there now for several winters (mostly March but 2018 also in April). Love the place and area.
Our favourite is; 08.5o the 1st lift on the Olympic to Bellevarde. Straight down to the Funival, up again and down the Face and back with the Olympic. Then down to the Toviere lift and so continuing to Tignes. Then start the up-and -down on the northern part:Tichot, Gratalui, Grand Huit and the Aiguille the Percee lift to the Aiguille de Percee( Eagleæ's eye). So down the Sache to Tignes les Brevieres and up again with the Boisses and MArais. Lunch on the nearest restaurant (around 11-11.3o). Down to Tignes 21oo up to Toviere and down again to take the Grand motte. You take the red down to Tignes and then the Fresse and down to Val. Up to La Solaise and over the mountain with the Laissiers and up to Col de Iseran on the lifts on the Glaciers of the Pisaillas. Then you end the day in Fornet around 16.3o. Beautiful.
The restaurants? Try La casa scara, The Avancher; La vielle maison in La Daille and also 1789 in Val.
Enjoy.
Just returned from Val (Val d'Isere) and must say the skiing experience here is still one of the best in the Alps. As an ex-racer I skied all over Europe in the 70s and have revisted many since to see them at a slower pace. Anyone who is advanced will immediately appreciate Val for its 10%+ black runs and tons of off-piste skiing. The powder here can be deep and 'dusty', (as it is right now) particularly off the top T-bar on the Le Fornet side and off the top 'old' charlift on the Tignes side (sign-posted as servicing a steep off-piste area) - [not true actually].
One needs only a few days to learn the lay of the land to figure out where to deviate from runs to access powder, often untouched days after a snowfall. The funicular from Tignes offers one of the best easy to imtermediate skiing at one go in the Alps... the funicular (Standseilbahn or train) takes you up a whopping 1000 meters or more to stunning col at the foot of the Grande Motte where you can ski down non-stop for 15-20 minutes on packed powder runs to the tunnel entrance. So after reading about the crowded icy ski outs from other contributors this is the place for you. Or you can continue from the col up the Grande Motte to the 3456 meter level and ski a great intermediate to advanced 'freeway' down groomed or non-groomed runs to the col or off to the right down int/adv run to a chair (and it's true that easy runs can become more difficult, in spite of its designation).
As one contributor pointed out it is true that the Austrian 'gemutlichkeit' will impress you more than what passes as French service (charming as the language and culture are), and the high-speed lifts of Switzerland are superior to its neighbours chairs and T-bars..., as is the case with costs where Val (Val d'Isere) is definitely at the upper end of the scale (generalizations, but true). But from a skiing perspective you'll find it hard to beat the quality of snow and massive area to explore of Val, particularly if you explore beyond Tignes down the valley with a guide.
I don't plug anyone or any establishment; there are plenty of sites to find out where the best places to eat and stay are. Suffice it to say you do still pay 14% tax in restaurants (it was not rolled back as of Jan 17 2010 as one contributor had hoped for) and reservations are needed at the good ones. Quality and variety of food varies a lot, but most have a nice French style alpine ambience. Do your homework on restaurants as there are a few fabulous establishments that are a must visit.
Get out and walk through the old town at night... it can be magical. Walk up to Le Fornet (don't take the bus). Walk back to Val on the mountain trail that starts on the other side of the bridge (over the gorge).
As a world traveller (from North America, Asia, Australia, Middle East) you may also be less than thrilled to find out how over-run Val (Val d'Isere) is now with one nationality. In my week here this time (less so in the past) I was rarely in the company of French/German/Italian speakers. For me, riding lifts, being in restaurants, and sharing the breakfast room day after day overwhelmingly with one nationality/language/culture in a French resort makes me want to travel to Whistler, Mont St Anne, Aspen, Vail, Lebanon, or Slovenia to slip into another world. What most people don't know is that the Eurostar from London travels directly to Bourg St Maurice (closest train station), and when it pulls in the cultural lanscape changes considerably. All resorts have changed this way to some extent, but Val And St Anton have been most affected. If you are looking for a more cosmopolitan continental European skiing experience and want excellent skiing then Verbier, Saas Fee/Zermatt, Sella Ronde/Val Gardena/Alta Badia are a few great locations.
But if skiing is your passion, and you have the time, ability and money, then the huge resort of Val (Val d'Isere) is one of the best in the world (Quatre Vallee [Verbier...], Trois Vallee [Val Thorens...], St Anton/Lech-Zurs/Rendel/Stuben, St Moritz/Corvatsch..., and Saas Fee... being the other European mega-areas).
Val has always been nice to arrive in, but also nice to leave now days.
I have skied most on offer, on and off piste. Superb itineraries in the right condition, possibly the best, piste accessed in the world.
I last went to Val in 2010 and was disappointed. There is money grabbing atmosphere. The expense has gone too far for the average punter.
Prefer Austria nowdays (Mayrhofen/Ischgl) where at least they seem to respect the punter's value for money with equal customer service.
If Val don't watch it it will join the similar demise of Courcheval and the top Swiss resorts. Affordability is set to return with vengeance in my opinion.
I went about half way through April 2011 where the snow was fine from above 2000m (only slightly above resort level) if a bit icy.
A warning to beginners: some blues can be quite steep so be careful.
Val d'Isere has lots of ski runs and it is a very enjoyable place for people of all ability (if you know which runs to go on) and although it is expensive, it is the only resort that I want to go back to next year.
I have just booked my ski hols to Val d'Isere, no snow yet! I am going in January and will be staying with Scott Dunn. I have been to Val d'Isere many times, a wonderful place. I have booked ski lessons on another off piste ski course with Martin Mckay Skiiing, skimckay.com, great instructor. I can't rate this resort enough especially after the world championships in 2009 with lots of little upgrades here and there. Roll on 2012! (I commute to Val d'Isere privately from Geneva).
Went back again this year and the 7 and 9 year olds skied the whole area. Mid April was slushy at the bottom but higher up was awesome. Both girls did both glaciers with 1km plus vertical drop runs after. Going back next year to explore the west side of Tignes. That will be the third year based in Val d'Isere and still haven't skied the whole area, enough said...
Went to Val d'Isere first week of January 2011. Great resort has everything an intermediate and above needs.
Beginners beware of how the slopes are graded, a lot of the greens are blues, but you can find the greens with a bit of help - I would suggest the Solaise area and part of the Tranquil area. Lift system is good for beginners as you don't need to ski back into resort. Reason I know this is that I took my daughters who found it harder than skiing in La Plagne. I can recommend Evolution 2 for lessons as they were with them all week and improved immensely.
Fornet is a great area to ski as no-one goes there and when it snows, also it's a must to try the scare chair ie the Lessieres Express which goes into it - it's just like a roller coaster.
As for it being expensive you just need to know where to eat and drink but if you've been waiting for it all year then why bother going if you're gonna cut back.
The best pubs are Cafe Face due to beer costs and Le Petit Danois which is also does good food and the bar staff. Also the Moris Bar is a good one with it's happy hour and band and live footy.
For me it's not as good as the 3 Valleys for Beginners but it is for the Intermediates, it's party scene / apres ski is not as good as St Anton but it is still good for a night out.
Just beware of the paths as we were told by our rep the Local Mayor likes Val D to look like a winter wonderland, therefore none of the paths are kept clear of ice and he has fresh snow dumped on the roads - skiers in boots or in general beware.
Val d'Isere could be a great place for skiing, the major problem is that people outside from France think that they are in their own country.
So if you are from Russia or UK, remember that you are in the French Alps and you have to respect it.
tx
Top of the range, ski esprit for third year, wife and daughters (6 and 8) all on third week of skiing at Val d'Isere. Skied La Plagne peviously but skiing in Val is on a different level. Me very experienced intermediate, girls all coming on well and skiing here is so varied and extensive that we all had a great time. Already booked again for 2011.
Having skied in Val (Val d'Isere) a few times and the 3V a few more times over the last 10 years or so I would say that if the most important criterion in choosing a resort is a wide choice of high quality restaurants then go to Meribel or Courchevel but if you want almost guaranteed good snow, freedom from lift queues even at half-term, variety of runs, easily accessible off-piste, choice of excellent ski schools (we have found TDC and Oxygen to be particularly good) and friendly locals then it's Val (Val d'Isere) every time.
Mountain restaurant prices can be painful but you can always eat more at breakfast & dinner and skip lunch until the exchange rate improves.